Secret Weapon: White Miso

Not just for soup anymore

Growing up, my mom (who is a wonderful cook) used miso in soup, of course, but also in everything from salad dressing to marinades to pasta. So from early on, I really appreciated the flexible nature of miso. It adds an earthy funkiness and depth of flavor that are unmatched.

There are three main kinds of miso -- white (shiro), yellow (shinshu), red (aka) -- all made from fermented soybeans. White is the mildest, yellow the middle kid, and red is the most fermented, so the punchiest tasting. There’s also a mixed miso (awase) which combines white and red. Different kinds of miso have varying flavor profiles, especially when fermented with another ingredient like rice or barley or even other kinds of beans. Some are sweeter, some are tangier, some are saltier.

I like white miso in particular for replacing cheese in dishes, because it gives a similar nutty savoriness without overpowering. I’m fond of the traditional miso from Yamasan Kyoto Uji which is gluten-free and made in Kyoto. You can get it on their site, Amazon, and other spots. They make a number of varieties that are all available in an easy to use, squeezable pouch, so you don’t have to buy a giant amount. Very handy too if you want to try a few different kinds without a large commitment. Other great miso recommendations are here.

Here’s a pic of my latest, well-used tube of white miso!

The key to using miso is thinking of it not as an Asian ingredient or an ingredient used just in, say, Japanese cooking, but rather as an ingredient based on how it tastes and what notes it can bring to a dish. This will open up a whole new world!

Many years ago, I was out of Parmigiano-Reggiano, replaced it with white miso, and never looked back. It makes a delicious pesto (see below) and is vegan to boot. Other quick flavor boosters I like to make with miso include miso butter and miso caramel. Anyway, excited to share this recipe with you. I hope it will encourage you to experiment on your own!

MISO BASIL PESTO

Miso is a fantastic, economical substitute for Parmigiano-Reggiano in this twist on a classic pesto. It gives all the umami without the dairy.

Makes 3-4 cups.

Ingredients

• 134 grams fresh basil -- 4 cups tightly packed, 6 cups loosely packed

• 1 cup hazelnuts, toasted (You can use pine nuts or walnuts if you prefer.)

• 4 tablespoons white miso

• 1 cup olive oil

• 4 garlic cloves, whole and peeled

• 1 teaspoon kosher salt (optional) (Miso is salty, but depending on which one you use, you may still need to add salt. Make sure to taste first and adjust.)

• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper

• 1/4 teaspoon piment d’Espelette (Sub in a pinch or two of cayenne.)

• 1 tablespoon lemon juice

Directions

Step 1: In a food processor, briefly blitz the nuts and garlic first so they are like rubble. Add the rest of the ingredients and blend into a pesto. Taste and reseason as necessary. At this point, you can store in the fridge where it will keep for several days or freeze. I usually use some and then freeze the rest.

If using right away, toss with cooked pasta or if you want to be a little fancier, caramelize onions in a pan, add sliced zucchini, and cook down. Then add some miso pesto and cooked pasta to the pan and toss. Serve with more pesto and olive oil drizzle. Enjoy!

N.B. I don’t use affiliate links unless specifically noted.

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What’s the SYP Cooks Score? I use my own KPI Kitchen Scorecard to rate every recipe I make. Want to score yours? Check it out here or download it in Excel or PDF.

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Life is too short for bad food.